The Tour of the Vanoise: Walking guide

Bare facts

The Vanoise National Park - the first National Park to be established in France - sits in the South East of the country and borders Northern Italy. With over 300 peaks above 3,000m, the scenery is bold and encompasses glaciers, rolling grassy meadows and glacial lakes, a true Alpine gem yet still relatively unknown. Our Tour of The Vanoise is mostly a hut-to-hut trek, staying high with unrivalled views of the various massifs in the region, including the Mont Blanc massif. We visit tiny hamlets and pass isolated farmsteads, as well as dropping into the buzzing resort of Val d’Isere and the quintessential Alpine village of Pralognan-la-Vanoise.

Best bits

The boldest stages of the Tour of the Vanoise cross the mountains from Val d‘Isère and Tignes towards Pralognan, with stage 7 and 8 often being favourites as you walk into the heart of the Vanoise National Park. Here is the Lac des Vaches (lake of the cows), one of the better-known spots in the whole of the Alps with stepping stones over the water and peaks above. We also love the hut-to-hut stages between the charming Refuge Plan Sec and Refuge Plan du Lac, offering spectacular glacial views throughout.

Is it for me?

Distances Our classic 10-stage trip features days mostly between 8 and 10 miles, with the longest day being 12.5 miles. This tour will suit strong mountain walkers, who are fit and happy to walk between 3 to 7 hours per day. There is a considerable amount of ascent and descent on this route, which must not be underestimated particularly when carrying a rucksack.

Underfoot The Tour of the Vanoise features a range of narrow grassy mountain path as well as some wider tracks and steep, loose and rocky paths usually around the cols. The terrain is similar to many treks across the Alps, such as the Tour du Mont Blanc or Walker’s Haute Route. There is one memorable section of stepping stones across a small lake (Lac des Vaches), on stage 8. There are also short sections of path with chains attached to the rock to aid passage, often with a steep drop to one side.

Navigation The route follows mostly clear paths and tracks, linking sections of the GR5 and GR55 long distance routes. There are waymarks and cairns to guide the way too, and often signposts which usually give an indication of times to the next hut or village. Being a more isolated trek, in wilder surroundings for sections of the trail, it is important that at least one member of the group is a confident navigator, particularly in case of poor weather.

Weather Weather in the high mountains is typically a mix of hot sunshine, cold nights, cooler rainy days, and everything in between! Prepare for the unexpected and always go equipped with wet weather gear, along with sun hat and sun cream for those warmer days. Snow can be a feature at any point during the Summer months, but typically will not last long and will be isolated to the higher cols.

When to go?

Our season on the Tour of the Vanoise is a little shorter than our normal Alpine walking season, with trips running from mid-July to the end of August. Our mid-July start date typically allows us to stick to high Summer weather, avoiding the late snow-melt that is possible some years and hard to predict. Unlike our other Alpine trips, we do not offer the Tour of the Vanoise in September; tourism in the Vanoise National Park is very seasonal, and restaurants, huts and key transport links often end for the summer at the end of August.

The Route

Here's a brief guide to the places and experiences on the TVA, on our normal 10-stage itinerary.

Stage One
From the French town of Modane, we begin with the shuttle bus up to Refuge de l'Orgère (a short but steep ascent, which can be walked if preferred). A climb through trees leads to a traverse across open hillsides, with distant views to the high peaks of the Vanoise. Having sighted the day’s destination across the valley, the second half of the day involves a circuit high above two lakes to reach the hut. Enjoy the views from the Refuge de Plan Sec at the end of the day, perched high on the hillside.

Stage Two
A day of gentle ups and downs, and long traverses across the hillsides. Today’s stage makes significant progress around the National Park with views ahead, behind, above, below and out across the valley. The second half of the day sees rougher country, until the final combe with the Refuge at the far side. In hot weather you may be treated to waterfalls above the streams before arriving at the refuge for the night.

Stage Three
Another day of stupendous views, possibly better than the previous stage. Rough and rocky terrain gives way to grassier combes and glacial valleys. The day’s destination can be seen for much of the first half, but the route takes a long loop around the head of the Doron gorge.

Stage Four
Firstly, the route completes the foray into the mountains around the Doron gorge, with fantastic views back to the previous stages. After Crête de la Turra, we rejoin the l’Arc valley and continue East on a high-level traverse across the hillside. Another day of good tracks and paths, and ever-changing vistas.

Stage Five
This stage gives a change of scene, as the route quickly drops to the River Arc for the first time since Modane. There follows an easy stroll along the valley bottom to the accompaniment of birdsong, waterfalls and just the occasional traffic. A day to encounter a bit more of the Alpine civilization than on the previous stages, and possibly some mid-walk refreshments in the charming village of Bessans.

Stage Six
An up and down day, going from the valley of the Arc, over the highest paved col in the Alps (Col de l'Iseran) down into the valley of the Isère: a change of valley and a change of character. The climb up is steep in places, but the descent is mostly well-graded. Enjoy the variety, and a night in the largest town to be visited by the Tour of the Vanoise, famous ski resort Val d'Isere.

Stage Seven
A day of stark contrasts. This stage starts with the modern architecture of the ski centres of Val d’Isère, Tignes and Val Claret, and finishes in the wild beauty of the Vallon de la Leisse where the refuge’s buildings are the only ones within sight. Along the way are two places from which it is possible to see the Mont Blanc massif.

Stage Eight
A day spent going from wild mountain scenery to a traditional small town typical of the Vanoise. The mountain views around the Col de la Vanoise are superb and it is a popular place to spot Chamois and Ibex, keep you eyes pealed! After a long descent, arrive at the genteel village of Pralognan which has all that's required without the modern architecture of the previous stage. We love Pralognan!

Stage Nine
A relatively relaxed day today despite the height gain as most of the day is spent on good tracks and paths. The route traverses pretty countryside before climbing steadily up-valley and into the mountains with Pointe de l’Echelle in view ahead. The route feels wilder as you continue to climb to your home for the night; the futuristic refuge of Péclet-Polset.

Stage Ten
This stage traverses the Col de Chavière, the last and highest col on the Tour of the Vanoise, and also the highest col crossed by any of the GR routes. And a grand setting it is. The route up is over loose steep scree, but once up, the downhill is on good paths. Once beyond the col, it is downhill almost all the way to Modane. Congratulations on the Tour of the Vanoise!

Hike the Tour of the Vanoise with Alpine Exploratory

Alpine Exploratory offers a self-guided trip of 10 stages for the TVA. For shorter trips, with the remainder left for another holiday, we recommend the Northern section over 4 or 5 days, starting in Val d'Isere and walking via Pralognan to Modane. The Southern section of the trail is then 6 days from Modane to Val d'Isere. Please ask us for more details.

Tour of the Vanoise
Tour of the Vanoise South (Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise)

In fact, this South circuit above is the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise which is popular within France. We link the two points of the figure of eight shape, in the middle, and thus arrive quickly in Pralognan, for a 6-stage trek.

Our self-guided holidays give you what you need to complete the route under your own steam. We book your accommodation in a mix of rustic huts and comfy hotels and we give you our detailed routecards, the local maps, and lots of notes. Importantly we will advise on the ideal schedule and accommodation to suit your approach to the TVA. Our guided trips are similar but give you the benefit of an Alpine Exploratory leader to show the way.

Please ask us any time for more details. Please feel free to describe your walking experience and preferences, and we'll suggest which trek you might enjoy most.

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