The Pennine Way: A guide to the walk

Bare facts

The Pennine Way is a walking trail running for 429km along the central mountains of mainland Britain, the Pennines.

The highest point reached by the standard route is 893m at the summit of Cross Fell. The terrain passed through is a mix of upland moors, mountains and low-lying farmland.

Trekkers completing the whole Pennine Way take typically between two and three weeks. The route also lends itself to walking shorter sections.

Best bits

	Valley and moor at Wessenden

Spectacular sights
Sights along the Pennine Way add much to the charm and the interest of the trek. A list of the famous places is not too dissimilar from a list of the top natural sights in the North of England outside the Lake District: Kinder Scout, Malham Cove, Pen-y-ghent, Hardraw Force, Swaledale, the Tan Hill Inn, High Force, Cauldron Snout, High Cup Nick, Cross Fell, Hadrian's Wall and The Cheviot, among others.

Most enjoyable stages
The walk from Malham to Horton-in-Ribblesdale is full of interest. It climbs Fountains Fell and then Pen-y-ghent, perhaps the most exciting hill on the whole Pennine Way. This is undeniably a great day's walk! For lovers of higher mountains the traverse of Cross Fell between Dufton and Alston will be a highlight whatever the weather.

When you're into the swing of a trek, it can happen that the most enjoyble stages are not necessarily those that have the biggest roll-call of sights but those that move you through the terrain in a satisfying way. Stages such as that from Bowes to Middleton-in-Teesdale lack the big features; instead they cross moors to link up valleys such as Baldersdale and Lunedale. Reaching civilisation can also be a big satisfaction! Stages ending at Hawes, Middleton and Alston have this added attraction.

Photo gallery: Pennine Way

The Pennine Way relative to other walks

The Pennine Way is the longest mountainous trail in the UK. Taken in smaller chunks, of course, length need not be an issue. What about the terrain? The Pennine Way's climbs are mostly long and gentle. Sections run over high open moorland, through fields on the hillsides and in the valleys.

Compared to the West Highland Way, the week-long walk from Glasgow to Fort William, the Pennine Way has slightly longer distances between accommodation, more climbing and more walking on high exposed ground. Compared to the Coast to Coast, the fortnight-long path from St Bees to Robin Hood's Bay, the Pennine Way is similar in many regards. The Lake District stages on the Coast to Coast are sharper and steeper but the Pennine stages are similar. The Pennine Way spends more time on high, wild ground.

Is it for me?

	The new bridge over Maize Beck

Long distance paths
The UK has a wealth of long distance paths: trails on which your multi-day walk becomes your personal mission for the duration. The Pennine Way can be right for you if you would enjoy the sense of achievement of completing a famous walk.

Can I manage it?
The Pennine Way is manageable for normal fit hillwalkers who are happy to walk for between roughly 5h and 8h 30m per day along a long-distance trail. Some of the days are very long - longer in distance than hillwalkers might normally plan - and some of the going can be arduous. However, the raw figures of distance and height gain can in many cases mislead; the miles pass quickly on the sections of walled track or the smooth open moor. In any case it will greatly help your enjoyment of the walk to arrive fit at the start, used to days of similar distance and height gain to those that you are about to face.

For those wary of walking the Pennine Way in one go, there are many towns and villages along the route suitable for rest days. The larger and better connected towns include Hebden Bridge, Settle (off the route), Hawes, Middleton-in-Teesdale and Alston. Take a day trip to a town nearby - Skipton, Richmond, Barnard Castle, Carlisle - or explore the local area. Of course, the Pennine Way can be tackled over two or more trips. We suggest a way to break it into three manageable holidays: our Pennine Way South trip from Edale to Malham, our Pennine Way Central trip from Malham to Alston, and our forthcoming Pennine Way North trip from Alston to Kirk Yetholm.

What's it like underfoot?
Underfoot the Pennine Way gives generally easy going. Gone are the days of endless slogs across boggy moors! Lines of stone flags have been laid in recent years across the worst patches. In the valleys expect to walk on grassy paths in fields. Walled tracks are often seen; these can be a delight, giving a chance to enjoy the scenery and the fresh air to the full as the miles pass by. Stiles and gates are very common over some stretches, less so on the open moor.

	Walking into Garrigill near Alston

Is the route obvious?
The Pennine Way is generally easy to follow on the ground. However, it is far from foolproof! Over areas of high mountain and moorland there is often a discernable path on the ground, but not always. Map and compass skills are essential. In clear weather the route might be obvious but if the clouds close in then some navigation will be needed. Many sections of the route follow tracks and field paths; in most places these sections are well signposted with the typical wooden posts saying 'Pennine Way'.

Is it technically difficult?
The Pennine Way is a long walk where the emphasis is on the distance travelled rather than the rockiness or technical difficulty of the terrain. Most ascents are gentle walks up grassy moorland. However, in a small number of places the route takes you up steeper ground. For example, the ascent of Pen-y-ghent involves two short steep rocky sections. The route to Cauldron Snout crosses two short boulder fields beside the River Tees and then climbs steeply up the rocks beside the waterfall. These sections should be no problem for regular walkers and they add interest to their respective stages. The Pennine Way would not suit walkers who want completely smooth paths - typically tracks have stones of varying sizes underfoot.

When to go?
UK Exploratory's Pennine Way season runs from the start of April to the end of October. We set this period to avoid the worst of the winter weather. Of course, it's possible to enjoy brilliant days along the Pennine Way in the heart of winter, whatever the weather is doing! We've experienced winter days in the Pennines with full winter conditions of snow and white-outs, and equally days that feel more like summer with no snow on the ground and warm termperatures. The difficulty of predicting the winter season in advance means that we have to err on the side of caution. From Easter to the Autumn you have a very good chance of decent walking weather. Rain is very likely to happen at some point during your trip! For the warmest temperatures choose the high summer months of June, July and August. Earlier in the year, in the Spring, there can be spells of wonderfully warm and dry weather, but as this is the British Isles there are never any guarantees!

Where to stay

The charming and exciting places to stay along the route are a major attraction of the Pennine Way. Each night offers something different. One evening might be spent as a guest in a family home in a tiny hamlet, tractors and sheep passing the window; the next night you could be in a small hotel looking out onto the busy square of a market town.

The route

Here we describe the route over the sections forming our Pennine Way South and Pennine Way Central holidays.

Edale to Crowden
The Peak District village of Edale is a fitting start point, easily reached and with hills all around. The first feature of the Way is Kinder Scout's extensive plateau; the route skirts the edges over Kinder Low (633m) and past Kinder Downfall, a huge spray of water in wet weather. Less well known but equally formidable is Bleaklow Head (also 633m), a second moorland crossing and the barrier to Crowden to the North. Arrive in the tiny settlement of Crowden after crossing Torside Reservoir.

Crowden to Standedge
Black Hill (582m) is the main event today. The long ascent from Crowden is gentle and eased by slabs underfoot across the wet moor. Drop down to the road at Wessenden. Now the route follows reservoir tracks and then paths over the open moor to Black Moss Reservoir. Lastly drop down to Standedge cutting above Standedge itself.

	The approach to Stoodley Pike

Standedge to Hebden Bridge
Here's a stage of high and varied views, ending in some real civilisation! From Standedge three moorland crossings lead to Blackstone Edge and its dark rocks, above Littleborough. On the way cross the M62 motorway. Your afternoon is spent on a peaceful and gentle series of reservoir tracks and moorland paths to Stoodley Pike. This is a bold landmark of the South Pennines, being a stone beacon with dark steps inside to a viewing platform. Drop down tracks and fields to Callis Wood and the Calder Valley, with the vibrant little town of Hebden Bridge a short walk along the canal towpath.

Hebden Bridge to Haworth
Leave Hebden Bridge for the stiff climb up to the moors. Two crossings lie on the route to Haworth, with a gentle walk around the remote Gorple and Walshaw Dean reservoirs in the middle. The second crossing brings you into Bronte country at Top Withins. Break off from the Pennine Way route for the easy diversion to Haworth. The famous parsonage and steep cobbled street are big draws.

Haworth to Lothersdale
Back on the Pennine Way at Ponden, a gentle walk from Haworth, the route climbs over the moorland ridge near Wolfstones. It then drops to the valley in Ickornshaw. On this stretch you pass an old shooting hut with a surprisingly remote feel. A mix of fields and tracks then takes you to Lothersdale, a secluded and quiet vilage in a fold of hills.

Lothersdale to Malham
Pinhaw Beacon (388m) is the highest point of the day and soon reached across fields from Lothersdale. Cross moors to Thornton-in-Craven and then fields and canal towpath to the Yorkshire village of Gargrave. Here the River Aire, the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, the Settle to Carlisle railway line and the road from Skipton to Kendal all converge. Malham is reached after a stretch of riverside walking, just as the ground starts to rise up to the classic Yorkshire Dales landscape of fells and limestone walls. Take a diversion from Malham to the waterfall of Janet's Foss and the deep cleft of Gordale Scar, two famous features of the Dales.

Malham to Horton-in-Ribblesdale
This is a stage full of features. A gentle walk leads from Malham to Malham Cove, a huge curving cliff face. Steps lead up the side of the cliff to the top. Here you can walk across a beautiful example of limestone pavement. Continue through two valleys lined with crags to Malham Tarn, a lake on the moor. Beyond, past delightful fields enclosed by dry stone walls, lies Fountains Fell (668m). This is the first of two hills to be crossed today. A gentle climb brings views as far as Pendle Hill in Lancashire and more importantly to the next objective, Pen-y-ghent (694m). Drop into Silverdale before climbing back up along the ridge of Pen-y-ghent. Two steeper sections add to the excitement before the summit is reached. Finally drop down over the moor on a good path to Hull Pot, a large hole in the ground into which a waterfall sometimes flows. Take an attractive walled lane from here all the way to Horton-in-Ribblesdale and its church, pubs, famous cafe and village shop.

Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Hawes
Set off from Horton for this wild and rugged stage to Hawes. The route initially takes an easy walled lane out of the village. Later cross several fields and reach Ling Gill Bridge on the edge of the moors. Not long after the bridge, the Pennine Way meets the Cam High Road. This is an old Roman Road, also used by the Dales Way, that runs in a straight course all the way to Dodd Fell. Look back for views towards the Ribblehead viaduct carrying the Settle to Carlisle railway line. Skirting the side of Dodd Fell, views change focus towards the North. Field paths bring you to the quiet hamlet of Gayle and beyond it the small town of Hawes, capital of Wensleydale. The Pennine Way passes close to the cheese factory! Hawes is a bustling and attractive market town with all the shops and facilities needed by Pennine Wayfarers.

Hawes to Keld
The highlight of today's stage to Keld is Great Shunner Fell (716m), the highest point reached so far by the Pennine Way since leaving Edale. Start by crossing fields to Hardraw and visiting Hardraw Force, another impressive waterfall. The ascent of Great Shunner Fell is long but gentle, in a giant arc to the North. Views open up and the summit wind shelter is visible from a long way off. From the summit drop down the other side in a similar fashion, now with views down into the valley of Swaledale from high above. Swaledale is known as one of the prettiest of Yorkshire valleys and is characterised by the number of old stone barns at the sides of fields. Reach Thwaite, one of Swaledale's farming hamlets, along a walled track. The section coming up between Thwaite and Keld is particularly scenic, crossing the side of Kisdon Hill high above the River Swale. Walk through fields and small wooded sections. Keld appears in a fold of hills, a neat hamlet and a charming place to spend a night.

	Easy tracks lead to Dufton

Keld to Bowes
Today is a day of moorland walking and one with subtle attractions instead of spectacular sights. The stage's highlight is perhaps the Tan Hill Inn, the highest pub in Britain. Leave Keld to the North, taking to the open moor and reaching Tan Hill before the slight drop to the Tan Hill Inn in its wild setting. Take the chance for some food and drink! The afternoon will be spent crossing Bowes Moor, not really that long a section, later crossing lower-lying ground through fields to Bowes. Bowes Moor is open and wild country but it is not bleak for long; following Frumming Beck and Sleightholme Beck let yourself be guided into the valley. Past farms, fields and river paths reach the pleasant village of Bowes. Bowes has its own small ruined castle - one that can be explored on foot.

Bowes to Middleton-in-Teesdale
Another less spectacular but nonetheless interesting stage is to come. From Bowes head North over the moors and drop down into Baldersdale, the first of two wide valleys crossed on this stage of the Pennine Way. The other valley is Lunedale, to come after another section of pleasant moorland walking. Both valleys hold a number of reservoirs and scattered farms and houses. In Baldersdale pass the old house of Hannah Hauxwell, a resident of the valley whose frugal way of life was discovered by many people through a TV series. Leaving Lunedale take to the moors once again. Finally reach a point with a wide panorama ahead to Teesdale. Prominent in this view is the small town of Middleton-in-Teedale, your home for the night. Drop over fields into town, emerging on the lively main street.

Middleton-in-Teesdale to Dufton
The walk from Middleton to Dufton is long - there's no getting away from it! There is the option of walking the first section, to Langdon Beck, the preceding afternoon after what will have been a relatively easy stage from Bowes. This section runs beside the River Tees for much of its length and is quite gentle. Pass High Force, a famous waterfall in Teesdale. From Langdon Beck follow the Tees furter still, to Cauldron Snout, a powerful waterfall and a different sight to High Force. The walking from this point on can be thought of as two separate sections. First cross the wild moors past Birkdale Farm to the new bridge at Maize Beck and the edge of High Cup Nick. Here is one of the most awesome sights on the Pennine Way, a vast glacial ampitheatre with a view out over the plain of Cumbria to the Lake District. The final section of walking takes you down mining paths and walled tracks to the delightful village of Dufton. Here sandstone and painted houses nestle on the village green.

	Dufton, a quiet Pennine village

Dufton to Alston
A bold and long walk over the North Pennines takes you to Alston, one of the most useful settlements on the Pennine Way. Before enjoying its shops, there is the small matter of Cross Fell (893m) to deal with! From Dufton the Pennine Way takes a track up onto the hillside below Knock Fell. Climb the remaining distance over the moorland to this, the first of four hills on today's route. Drop down and back up again to Great Dun Fell with its radio masts, then again to Little Dun Fell. From here Cross Fell lies across another dip. Stone flags make the passage over the moor quite manageable. Cross Fell is a large plateau with views all around including to the Lake District. Drop down to a good track that runs from the side of Cross Fell over a considerable distance of moorland to Garrigill. Pass Greg's Hut on the way, a bothy where you can take shelter. The village of Garrigill with its green is a welcome sight and heralds the beginning of the last section of today's walk. Follow the River South Tyne through fields to Alston. The cobbled central square is attractive and the many facilities will be welcome after a long hard day!

Trek the Pennine Way with UK Exploratory

Self-guided holidays
UK Exploratory offers two self-guided walking holidays on the Pennine Way, covering the route as far North as Alston. In future we plan to offer the whole route as three week-long trips, as well as the whole thing.

Our self-guided holidays set you up for a successful trek under your own steam. We book and pay for your accommodation along the route; and we send you our well-received info packs including routecards for all the walking, the maps, emergency cards with essential info for accidents, and detailed notes about the local transport.

Pennine Way    South Self-guided trekking 6 days Walk over wild moors, through villages and across fields, from Edale to Malham					Pennine Way    Central Self-guided trekking 7 days Tackle this spectacular section of the PW through the Yorkshire Dales and North Pennines